![mazda protege 5 2003 mazda protege 5 2003](https://statics.wheelwell.com/u/6e680069-85c4-4cd8-93e4-44fe6b977ae3.large.jpg)
The stock MS Protege ECU tune left a lot to be desired so it is good that a new SSAFC V2 air fuel controller is included in the sale. The seller links a build thread on a Mazda specific forum on the build that was started in 2012. The 2.0 turbo engine is a ticking time bomb if you run over 10 psi without changing out to forged internals. The Mazdaspeed engine is largely stock with the exception of a front mount intercooler versus OEM side mount and T28 turbo versus the OEM T25. The car has a few issues that are claimed to be simple and easy fixes ( which begs the question as to why someone capable of swapping an engine would not take care of them). The car is described as being tastefully modified and an excellent driver.
#Mazda protege 5 2003 driver#
This swap is the sellers daily driver and has 140,000 miles on the chassis. Find this 2003 Mazda Protege 5 for sale in Manchester, CT for $4,200 via craigslist. The seller is active on a Mazda forum and lists more information about the car than most any normal person will care to read about. An enthusiastic Protege fan took it upon himself to create a more practical alternative to the MS Protege sedan. Nearly all car enthusiasts ( DT readers included) share a common love of the station wagon. In the comments, it was bemoaned that Mazda never saw fit to give the Mazdaspeed treatment to the Protege 5 wagon. There is special grease for slide pins.Last week’s Sunday piece featured a unusually clean Mazdaspeed Protege. After you work it a few times it will tighten back up just fine.Ĭlean averything well and grease the slide pins with a good quality waterproof grease. After you do your brakes you may notice that your parking brake has A LOT of play. But you HAVE to at least start it back in. Then you can push the piston back in with a regular piston push back tool. Then turn the set screw in there out a few turns. You need to take this off the caliper and reach inside with an allen head (I think it's 5mm). I have done 100's of brake jobs on lots of different vehicles.īiggest issue with the protege is getting the piston back in. However, this solution albeit long winded is simple and takes less than 5 mins to accomplish follow the instructions carefully and you'll be fine.ġ) I have owned a Mazda protege 5 for the last 4 yearsĢ) I have done 2 complete brake jobs on itĤ) I know what I am doing. If you are able to push the peddle to the floor with little resistance you have an issue with your caliper piston and likely need to replace/rebuild it. Then turn your car on and pump the brakes, you should feel the resistance about mid-pump. Get in your car when you are done, PUMP THE BRAKES until you can no longer pump them, this builds the pressure back in the lines (more required if you bleed the lines) In-fact it is a MUST DO if you bleed the lines. Now you can put the caliper back on and reassemble your brakes. You want to apply even pressure to the piston or you could potentially damage the piston and have to replace the caliper.Īpply the pressure, this will push the piston back into the housing, continue until the piston is fully retracted. Make sure whichever you use is large enough to fit over the back of the caliper piston (where the brake line goes in) and the *middle* of the piece of material you're using. Once you have the piece of material find a Channel-lock Wrench, or 'C' Clamp. Place this piece of material on the inside of the caliper over top of the piston (round hollow bowl with rubber seal on it - its on the big end of the caliper can't miss it)Ģ. Take an flat piece of something that is rigid enough to apply pressure to (small piece of ply-wood, old brake pad, etc) make sure that it's flat-ish and won't squish, crush, or snap when pressure is applied to the middle of it. All of the above could still be the problem, however this is much simpler and less time consuming.ġ. If the caliper won't go back initially try this much easier solution prior to re-building/replacing, or 'bleeding the line' (releasing the pressure), and replacing the lines.